Rhyd y Gyfarthfa: A Ford Steeped in Welsh Lore

Shrouded in the mists of time are legendary tales that helped shape the mythology of Cymru. In this blog post we will be taking a closer look at the tale and mythology of Urien and The Ford of Barking in Llanferres (Rhyd y Gyfarthf). Like most of the historical Welsh prose recorded in the Medieval era, this story is deeply rooted in ancient Celtic mythology with a sprinkling of Christian elements. This is not at all uncommon when these stories were recorded by the monks who put them on parchment for the first time.

The following tale was written into the marginalia of the Peniarth Manuscript 147. This manuscript discusses Welsh place names and was likely written around 1556 [1]. The tale touches upon the well-known Celtic folklore trope of “washer at the ford” (see also The Morrigan). What follows is a translation from the Welsh:

“In Denbighshire there is a parish called Llanferres, and it is there that one will find Ryd-y-gyfarthfa [Ford of the Barking]. And in former times, the dogs from the whole country used to come to that ford to bark, and no what dared to go to see what was the matter until Urien Reged came. And when he came to the bank of the ford, he saw nothing but a young woman washing. And then the dogs ceased their barking. And Urien grabbed hold of the girl, and he engaged in a sexual act with her.

And then she said, ‘God’s blessing on the feet that brought you here.’

‘Why?’ said he.

‘Because I was fated to wash here until I get a son by a Christian. And I am the daughter of the king of Annwvyn. Come here at the end of the year and you will get the boy.’

And so, he came, and he got the son and a daughter, none other than Owein son of Urien and Morfyd daughter of Urien.”[2]

Further mention of this “union” and resulting family tree can be seen in Triad 70, known as “The Three Blessed Womb-fuls of the Isles of Britain”. The triad lists the offspring that result from three notable unions. The triad is shared in Welsh and paraphrased in English below:

Vryen mab Kynuarch, ac Aravn mab Kynuarch, a Llev mab Kynuarch, 0 Neuyn verch Brychan Brecheinyavc eu m am;

A’r eil, Owein mab \‘rycn a Moruucl tietch Vryen ac Anarun Archesgobj ‘d~o Voclion merch Aualiach cu main;

Y tryclyd oed Gwrgi  a Peredur, meibon Eliffer Gosgotduavt, ac Ardun eu chwaer, a Dyrw . . . dyl, a Chornan cii march, a Thonilvy(t) eu bvch. [3]

1. Urien and Eurddel, twins of Cynfarch the Old and Nevyn daughter of Brychan
2. Owain son of Urien and his sister Morwyd, twins of Modron daughter of Avallach
3. Gwrgi and Peredur and Ceindrech Wing-head, children of Eliffer of the Great Retinue and Eurddel daughter of Cynfarch. [4]

Urien ap Cynfarch Oer (Urien son of Cynfarch Oer, whose name means “Privileged Birth” or “Noble”), was thought to be a 6^th century ruler of Rheged. His kingdom was most likely based around the area of what is now known as the Solway Firth in northen England and southern Scotland (historically known as Hen Ogledd). Urien died during the reign of Theodoric of Bernicia, who reigned during the Mid 570-AD, which places him directly in the time of transition from Pagan to Christian Wales. He was unfortunately murdered at the request of his ally, Morgan, during the siege of the Anglo-Saxons in Lindisfarne [5].

Above we can see that the Lady at the ford is no other than the Goddess Modron, daughter of Avallach a king of Annwfn. Modron is no stranger to meeting men at fords, having met Parisi of Gaul 2,400 years ago in a similar situation. To be fair, this was a long time before Tinder and meeting potential suitors was a lot more difficult back then.

Modron is a well-known Celtic mother goddess associated with Wales and Cornwall. In northern Britian she was known as Matrona, with Celtic-Romano shrines being found all along Hadrian’s Wall. It is also thought that she might have been the prototype for the Arthurian figure of Morgan le Fay [6]. It is important to note that Modron is said to be the mother of Mabon, who is often associated with Owain ap Urien in Welsh poetry [7].

Its surprised me to see such as small village having such an interesting role in mythology. Llanferres, located in Denbighshire, had a population of only 827 in 2021. The village lies on the eastern side of the beautiful Clwydian Hills, just south of the much loved “Scouse Mountain” (Moel Famau) [8]. Other than an interesting find of a barbed and tanged arrowhead in a local cave, there is nothing to suggest that Llanferres has a history dating back to pre-history. In fact, the first mention of this village dates to 1254 in the Norwich Taxation [8]. Other than these few mentions, there is not much historical information on this little village.

This area, which is accessible from a layby opposite the Druids Inn pub, is well worth a visit for the beautiful nature and views. I recommend walking up to the disused quarry and taking your time to look at the wildflowers.

Please do subscribe to the blog as I am planning on touching upon Madron and her father Avallach further in the coming weeks.

Sources

[1] https://www.roman-britain.co.uk/classical-references/welsh-celtic-literature/king-urien-and-modron-daughter-of-avallach/

[2] John T Koch (in collaboration with John Carey) The Celtic Heroic Age: Literary Sources for Ancient Celtic Europe and Early Ireland and Wales. Celtic Studies Publications, 1995.

[3] http://www.lundyisleofavalon.co.uk/texts/welsh/triads.htm

[4] John T Koch (in collaboration with John Carey) The Celtic Heroic Age: Literary Sources for Ancient Celtic Europe and Early Ireland and Wales. Celtic Studies Publications, 1995.

[5] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urien

[6] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modron

[7] https://www.maryjones.us/jce/mabon.html

[8] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Llanferres

[9] https://www.mythslegendsodditiesnorth-east-wales.co.uk/llanferres